![]() Last edited by Cuyahoga Chuck 07-02-2012 at 12:25 PM.ĭenny, Ya the plan is to move the passenger compartment to the back of the boat, the motor only weighs about 80 lbs so I am going to have figure the balance out when I get to that point, there has been alot of great post on here about trying to make this happen, one about how do I get the heat from the motor from cooking the passengers, that I will take care of by running duct work to the air intake at the fan side and matching duct on the other side sending it out through vents out the back of the boat, The exhaust will run through the out going duct work which will help keep it cool ( somewhat ) and help protect the wood of the frame, I am now also looking into a trans so it will have f/n/r, there are many ways of doing this by useing a boat type trans or I am also looking at race car style trans, not sure on this yet but thats going to be the most fun about this project is just figuring out all of these things, not to mention that i still have to get the boat togther, with the help from people on this form its makes me think about a lot of these issues so keep the post coming and call me a idot if you think I am out of my mind for trying this as thats ok some of the best things we have in this world were dreamed up by some crazy fool in a barn, I will have pics up as soon as i can ![]() ![]() An aircooled motor pouring heat to the rear could make passengers very uncomfortable if it's warm out. That is because the heat coming off the motor has to be tempered so as not to roast the passengers. Just about all front motored runabouts of the past had watercooled motors. I'm adding this because my google for "Sling shot cars" didn't get me any specifics about the B&S motor. Then, for safety and ease of manuerver you should have a Forward/Neutral/Reverse capability.ģ. ![]() Most of the outboards I'm familiar with seem to have a built in gear reduction in excess of 2:1.Ģ. So you may need a suitable Gear reduction box. Too many and the prop cavitates and you lose bite on the water.That RPM is likely to be much different than the operational RPM of your sling shot mill. a boat prop works in a limited band of RPMs. There are some engineering needs that need to be addressed.ġ. Wow, i never thought there would be this many post on my crazy thought about a briggs and stratton motor in a boat, The boat I am building is a clark caft sport runabout 13, design #cn52, I plan on changing the design a little, I know its a outboard but I want something differnt, I want somthing that is two seats with the seating to the rear of the boat like from the 30s and 40s, the motor I plan on using came from a race car, the cars are called sling shots, you can look them up on the internet, these motors are pretty quiet in race form and with some exhaust work should be very quiet, and they are electric start, as far as hooking up to a prop shaft this will not be a big deal as i have full access to a machine shop that I can make any adapters needed, I have looked for all the parts needed to make this all happen and most all of it can be found, I know this idea sounds pretty crazy to most boat builders but you have to understand that i already have the motor ( $2500 ), I have 25 years as a welder fabricator and a full machine shop to work in, as I get to the differnt stages i will post pics so everyone can see, THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR INPUT, JIM KEMPĪs soon as I get far enough along I will post lots of pictures, as of now I am just starting to get all the wood so the boat can be put together, I think it will be a fun project with alot of late nights in the shop, like I said this is my first boat build but the blue prints look very easy and are easy to understand, I will keep you all postedDon't go away too soon.
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